Although warned this hotel had no reception, we were told someone would be on hand to check us in to our room until 8pm. We arrived before 7pm but no one was there. The elderly Signora who lives below helped us out and we were able to speak with the owner (at his other, and clearly more important) hotel. The room was simple but clean and perfectly suitable for a single night en route to somewhere else.
Found a good trattoria at the end of the road for supper. Returned to find we (and other guests) were locked out after an earlier guest had double-locked the inner door. The owner was summoned, arrived eventually on his moped, clambered around outside to wake up the earlier guest and got us all back in. At which point he denied we had booked bed and breakfast 'No, no, no! Room only!' Which was interesting because on our invoice for the hotel tax, left on the table in our room, was clearly printed the legend 'Bed and breakfast.' We added a note to the invoice explaining we would be diverting the nominal amount requested for the hotel tax to the breakfast we would now be forced to buy at the same trattoria down the road.